September 20, 2003 – Buongiorno from Milano, Italia! Thank you all for your patience, as I know some of you were getting “antsy” waiting for my next update. I have just been to busy riding and having fun to stop and sit in front of a computer for a few hours! I'm waiting for Lawrence to arrive tomorrow so now is a good time! It's going to be amazing to see him after three months and to experience the Alps together. Can't wait!
When I last left you, almost a month ago, I was heading to Paris for the finish of the Tour de France. I spent some time in Chamonix, France mountain biking and hiking in the shadow of Mt. Blanc which is over 4,000 meters! Beautiful area with very awe inspiring views and crazy mountain passes! Then I made it to Paris for a few days of rainy weather (of course!) and then the sunny Tour finish on the Champs Elysees. Got an early start and found a spot about 400 meters after the finish line. Perfect as I was right in front of the big screen TV broadcasting the stage, and saw all of the riders celebrations and disappointments as they finished the 3-week race. We saw great racing action on each lap, viewed the awards ceremony from about 200 meters behind the podium and caught a great glimpse of all the riders as they participated in the parade celebrating the centennial year. Even got a wink from Lance and Tyler!
I was also standing for the nine hours with a great family from Idaho so I was able to tell lots of stories! Amazing finish to an amazing three weeks and I was so happy to be a part of Lance's 5th win. Looking forward to the next time! Vive la Tour and Vive le Lance!
Then I was off to Germany by train to begin my ride from Frankfurt to Vienna, Austria, approximately 1,300 kms. I was a little nervous about starting out in a new country again but there was little to be concerned about as I was welcomed from the minute I arrived as I was greatly assisted by a girl I met at the train station – Sue from Australia – who helped me with my bags to get to Heidelberg. Then an amazing taxi driver named Paul took me to my campground where the first thing I saw was a beer garden right at the entrance! Some neighbors offered me a drink right away and the rest is history! So first impression of Germany….thumbs way up!!!!
The first leg of the trip was Heidelberg-Munich which was 500 km of castles, beautiful vibrant flowers, lush rolling hills, flat, twisty river riding, fragrant forests and I met some amazing people along the way – the Crosscombes, Jonny, Aubrey, Sue, Natalie and many others! Oh and did I mention the HEAT!!! Glad there were lakes at almost every campground that I stayed at so I could cool off right away! Did have my first item stolen however, my bike computer. I wasn't using it anyhow so I was not too upset. And I also had my first major mechanical breakdown. Got a flat tire on the way to the Paris train station so the change was not a problem but I think I may have torn the tire in the process. The tube started bulging through the tear and I had to replace the tire but I was in the middle of nowhere! Luckily a bike shop appeared right when I needed it and I was on my way in no time! Also had my first “bonk” of the trip, which for those of you that don't know, is a kind of 'wall' you hit when all of your energy is lost. No doubt because of the heat and not enough water and nutrients.
Big fan of Munich – amazing architecture, beautiful parks and gardens, history coming out of everywhere and of course great food and beer gardens. Also visited Dachau, which was the first concentration camp and was operational from 1933-1945. The memorials, museum and condition of the camp was a great tribute to those that were killed and to the survivors. Very emotional to see that aspect of history up close and personal, especially as it didn't happen that long ago. On the lighter side, watched some surfing at the campsite (yes, surfing in Germany!) lots of naked people bathing in the sun but of course I was not watchingS and naturally there was good beer! The people make the country and I was made to feel very welcome.
Off to Vienna Austria for the continuation of the tour. Again it was very hot but I camped on Chemsee See on my way from Munich right at the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. The water was perfect after a long, 100-km day on the bike. Then off to Salzburg which is a glorious city surrounded by mountains to the South, an amazing castle perched on a hilltop, music around every corner, and the start of my river-ride to Vienna. On route to Salzburg I was flagged down by a great guy, Alexander (noticed my flag and heavy load!), who invited me into his home for a great breakfast, a chat about his many travels by bike in the mountains of Europe, an offered to fix my bike if I had any problems (which I accepted!), another water bottle as he saw I only had one, and some energy bars which I haven't been able to find! I asked how I could repay him and he suggested doing the same for a traveler I meet in Canada! What a refreshing treat to meet him and I will be sure to return the favor some day!
Some other details about the 2-day trip to Salzburg from Munich: I experienced some heat rash on my legs and aired out my sleeping bag, but of course it rained the one time that month! All dry now, so no worries!
Then the last leg… to Vienna which I was looking forward to as the trip was entirely on bike paths and lots of other cyclists make this trip as it's very flat, undemanding physically, and there are lots of towns and facilities set up for cycle tourists along the way so accommodations and food are not a problem. I met a lot of enthusiastic people along the way who were so curious about my travels and me of theirs.
Thanks Damian for the great ride from Passau to Ashach. Jo, Pat, and Soccer, pleasure to tell stories of travels all over the world and meet another female solo rider! Next plan is to ride across the US, right Jo? And thanks to everyone else for the chats along the way. Nice to have company for a change!
I followed the Inn river from Salzburg to Passau and then caught up with the huge Danube river all the way to Vienna. I enjoyed many short days as the kms flew by fast, andI had lots of time to explore and see the sights.
The best day on the bike: the stretch from Grein to Krems was the most amazing 80 km of the ride. Huge, old, fortresses around every corner, vineyards lining the hills, quaint little towns with bowls of fruit and grapes on a chair for sale outside front doors and lots of boats floating along the river. The worst day on the bike: had a very wet day from Linz to Grein riding in about 2.5 hours of constant rain but got to Grein as the sun was coming out and dried everything out. I also had a schedule to keep as I was meeting my neighbor in Vienna so I had to ride. And I wasn't out there alone so I'm glad I didn't chicken out! Later I feasted on some great weiner schnitzel to reward myself for the hard day and it was great!
My arrival in Vienna came quickly where I stayed with my neighbor Jennifer at a lovely family's house in Bruck on der Leitha about 30 minutes south of Vienna. Before my arrival though I had to pass through the city of Vienna. Navigating big cities can sometimes be difficult, but I made it – and now a funny story!
Somehow I got on the wrong path out of town and had to pass through 5 kms of old, wrinkled naked people to get on the right path! Needless to say I did not want to look anyone in the eye or smile but they were all staring at me like I was the odd one! It was a funny, funny time! I made it to Bruck after an awesome thunder storm the night before and the Hadja's welcomed me into their home with open arms! I felt like a part of the family right away. Christa, Lucas, Josef and Johanna gave me such a relaxing week with the opportunity to “live normally” for a week. Well Austrian normal! Slept in a bed, did some laundry, and best of all, got to sit in a comfortable chair! They introduced me to the flavor of amazing Austrian wine, great food along with much ice cream and sweets along with many late nights chatting. Lovely friends of Jennifer and the Hajda's, the Eger's, took me to a local heurigen which is a Austrian tradition where a vineyard allows people to buy their wine and they serve amazing food to accompany the wines. Fantastic experience and the hospitality was much appreciated! In Vienna I saw too many beautiful buildings to count but here are a few: the Belvedere and Schunbrunn castles, both grandiose in their own way, amazing art work displays, St. Stevenson's church and went to a Mozart symphony performance where I got the chance to dress up for once (thanks for the shoes Christa!).
I was sad to leave but I couldn't stay forever! Thank you Jennifer for the opportunity, and thank you Hajda's and Eger's for the amazing Austrian experience! You all made the experience unforgettable and I actually got choked up as the train was pulling out of the station. So excited to now have a family in Austria! I hope to welcome you into my home when you visit Canada!
Now I'm in Milano after a 15-hour train ride and will meeting Lawrence at the airport in less that 24 hours! Can't wait for someone from home to share what I have been seeing instead of trying to explain it in a 15-minute phone call or email! Wish you could all come and visit. There are so many little stories of meeting new people, seeing beautiful things, the hardships of traveling and experiences that I can't fit all in an email so I suggest you all get out there and make some of your own stories!
The next 10 days will be spent with Lawrence in the Alps, then my mother Jan will be arriving on September 10 to ride with me for 2 weeks in Tuscany and then I make my way back to Paris by train to fly to New Zealand on October 3. An exciting month to come and so looking forward to telling you all about the adventures! Hope all is well in your part of the world and miss you all lots! Good luck at school to those of you starting soon, Happy Birthday Amy and Katie and looking forward to talking to some of you soon. Ciao!
Love, Robyn